Wow! I didn't realize how long it had been since I posted last...I hope no one was holding their breath. I had such a great time in Ireland I didn't want to ever go on a computer because Ireland way too amazing to spend time inside alone on a computer!
I got back in the States on the 29th and spend about 23 hours in New York City with my brother Andrew and his boyfriend Andre. I decided to pull an "all-nighter" and stay up for over a day straight so I could hang out in NYC. I met my brother on the subway near JFK and we went to his apartement then went and bought tickets for a show called "In the Heights". It currently is an off-broadway show but the rumor is it will be going on Broadway in the next month or so because it is so good. We met up with Andre a little while later at a chinese restaurant their friend owns which was great because I was a little sick of straight Irish cuisine for 2 months. After dinner we got a frisbee and went to Central Park and messed around before we headed for the show.
In the Heights is an amazing show! It is about a neighborhood in Manhattan called Washinton Heights which has a very large population of people from the Dominican Republic. It was a musical, which is great because I have an affinity for show tunes and Tony Bennett. I only nodded off three times and I woke up immediately, but I didn't feel too bad because I had been awake for about 23 hours at that point...I was way too tired for emotions anyway! After the show we took the subway back to his place and went to the roof! For anyone who hasn't been on a roof in NYC, it is amazing! You really get a feel for the physical map of the city because you see lower Manhattan all lit up then darkness and then upper Manhattan all lit up too, all the bridges connecting the city...it is really gorgeous and it made leaving Ireland a little easier. I think I finally went to bed around 1am which was 8am where my body was and I miraculously woke up in time to shower, pack and take the numerous trains to JFK again. It is really weird to think I left NYC yesterday but it is true, and I got into Seatac at about 9:15 last night...thankfully! When I was trying not to fall asleep in the San Franciso airport I heard that my plane had broken down and was now delayed! I went up to the desk and asked what was going on and they had no idea and told me it would be a couple hours before they knew anything. Thankfully the woman working there was really nice and got me a ticket for a plane going to Seatac at 7:15 (my original plane was supposed to leave at 5:50) and when I finally landed at Seatac my original flight hadn't even taken off yet. I was so thankful that I went and asked because as I was boarding my new flight they made an announcement saying they had no idea when the plane was getting fixed and everyone should try and get onto a new flight just in case...about 150 people got in line trying to get onto my plane! Whew so lucky!
So now I leave for Portland tomorrow morning to go to the Northwest Writing Conference with the Cooper Point Journal, my college paper I have worked on for the past two years and which I am the Managing Editor of next year. During the weekend I have to write a 20 page paper about my experience in Ireland which shouldn't be very hard at all! The only hard part is staying awake....dang that jetlag it feels like it is about 10pm right now but in Seattle it is 2pm or so! I am hoping to post parts of my paper on my blog so keep checking for that and pics and thanks a bunch to anyone who has read my blog and/or emailed my while I was gone! It meant a lot! Also if anyone would like to see my pictures email me and we can either meet up or I can email them to you, believe me I have soo many Ireland, Norway, and UK stories you will have to ask me to stop talking!
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Just a bump in the road
After a whirlwind 5 day tour of the surrounding areas of Galway, the city of Derry, the Giants Causeway, and the carrick-a-rede rope bridge I am back in the Gleann.
We spent our first day in Galway going to the Joe Heaney Sean-nos singing and dancing festival. There were three sessions that we attended throughout the day, the first was a Sean-nos singing workshop which was interesting and very confusing at the same time. Because we were in the Connemara Gaeltacht the leaders were speaking very fast and fluent Irish...something I hadn't heard yet. In the afternoon the festival continued at a local pub where members of the community sang solo's, some in Irish and some in Bearla (English). It was a really great event and almost everyone had an amazing time listening to the singing. At night we got to listen to a concert which opened with a group of about 5 boys who played traditional Irish instruments amazingly well even though they were between the ages of 10-13. Listening to these boys play made me think back to my elementary school days of band concerts when I played the..clarinet. All I remember from my own concerts are squeks similiar to those of a dying duck. The rest of the concert consisted of community members playing instruments, singing, and dancing all in traditional Irish style.
Our last day in Galway was spent traveling throuout County Clare to see a dolmen, Brigid's Well and the Cliffs of Moher. The next morning we left for the City of Derry.
Derry which is located in County Derry in Northern Ireland was a very violent place during the troubles. During one of our last stops in the Republic I asked our bus driving if the border was very noticable and he said that during the troubles soldiers were always seen but now the only difference is they have better tar. I thoguht he was joking! Sure enough when he motioned to me that we were crossing over I looked ahead and the tar was even, darker and smoother. We went over a bump in the road as the tar changed and he said "That's it" and then we were in the North. I expected to be in a state of shock as we pulled in through the city of Derry because I had heard of the murals but right when we crossed into Northern Ireland the energy changed dramatically. Now I am not someone who claims to be in tune with anything but I looked around the bus and everyone was silently looking out the window too. About 20 minutes later when we arrived into the city everyone was tense, we passes the murals depicting the troubles, the death and pain that Irish Catholics experienced. We past the "You are now entering FREE DERRY" sign and when we got to our hostel no one hurriedly jumped off the bus, everyone silently piled out and looked around. Our hostel was in the Bogside, an area that was hit hard with violence between Catholics and soldiers. The first thing we did in Derry was take a walking tour with a guide from the Free Derry museum. He took us through the bogside, up to the walls where the soldiers used to stand and shoot at the Republicans (Catholics) and guard the Protestant neighborhoods. Standing on the wall I realized that what I had heard about the situation still being tense was most likely true, the area is still segregated. The Protestant neighborhood is fenced off from the Catholic Bogside and the unwelcoming barbed wire can't be helping the situation. After the tour I was in a somber state so I walked around the area with a few friends for a while to get a feel for the city. We ended up at a restaurant/bar called the Ice Wharf...we walked in and a guy sitting with some friends threw up everywhere...it kind of set the tone for the place. The Menu listed all the beef as 100% British Beef and our receipt listed the location as Londonderry. When we walked outside a fight was breaking out between two drunk idiots and later another fight started between two men yelling right-o at eachother. That night we went to a pub called Bound for Boston and caught a show for a while before walking through the dark streets of Derry to the hostel. We all agreed that it was a creepy place to walk through, but at least now it is safe to walk through ... at least for outsiders (as our guide put it). Yesterday was our last day in the North and we spent it going to the Giant't Causeway and the Carrick-a-rede rope bridge in Co. Antrim. It was really fun but I would of loved to spend more time in Derry seeing more the Protestant neighborhoods and talking to locals.
It was really weird to be in a different country using a different currency but still be in Ireland. It is sad that such a small country has to have two completely different systems but luckily things politically involving Britain are starting to improve. While we were in Derry powersharing started between Northern Ireland and England. Hopefully one day not too far away there will be a united Ireland and Britains control over the North will cease to exist. This is already starting in Scotland as well, last week the Scottish Nationalist Party won the election there and started a 5 year plan for independence! It is possible, and a lot of Irish are looking at Scotland to see if they are succesful.
We spent our first day in Galway going to the Joe Heaney Sean-nos singing and dancing festival. There were three sessions that we attended throughout the day, the first was a Sean-nos singing workshop which was interesting and very confusing at the same time. Because we were in the Connemara Gaeltacht the leaders were speaking very fast and fluent Irish...something I hadn't heard yet. In the afternoon the festival continued at a local pub where members of the community sang solo's, some in Irish and some in Bearla (English). It was a really great event and almost everyone had an amazing time listening to the singing. At night we got to listen to a concert which opened with a group of about 5 boys who played traditional Irish instruments amazingly well even though they were between the ages of 10-13. Listening to these boys play made me think back to my elementary school days of band concerts when I played the..clarinet. All I remember from my own concerts are squeks similiar to those of a dying duck. The rest of the concert consisted of community members playing instruments, singing, and dancing all in traditional Irish style.
Our last day in Galway was spent traveling throuout County Clare to see a dolmen, Brigid's Well and the Cliffs of Moher. The next morning we left for the City of Derry.
Derry which is located in County Derry in Northern Ireland was a very violent place during the troubles. During one of our last stops in the Republic I asked our bus driving if the border was very noticable and he said that during the troubles soldiers were always seen but now the only difference is they have better tar. I thoguht he was joking! Sure enough when he motioned to me that we were crossing over I looked ahead and the tar was even, darker and smoother. We went over a bump in the road as the tar changed and he said "That's it" and then we were in the North. I expected to be in a state of shock as we pulled in through the city of Derry because I had heard of the murals but right when we crossed into Northern Ireland the energy changed dramatically. Now I am not someone who claims to be in tune with anything but I looked around the bus and everyone was silently looking out the window too. About 20 minutes later when we arrived into the city everyone was tense, we passes the murals depicting the troubles, the death and pain that Irish Catholics experienced. We past the "You are now entering FREE DERRY" sign and when we got to our hostel no one hurriedly jumped off the bus, everyone silently piled out and looked around. Our hostel was in the Bogside, an area that was hit hard with violence between Catholics and soldiers. The first thing we did in Derry was take a walking tour with a guide from the Free Derry museum. He took us through the bogside, up to the walls where the soldiers used to stand and shoot at the Republicans (Catholics) and guard the Protestant neighborhoods. Standing on the wall I realized that what I had heard about the situation still being tense was most likely true, the area is still segregated. The Protestant neighborhood is fenced off from the Catholic Bogside and the unwelcoming barbed wire can't be helping the situation. After the tour I was in a somber state so I walked around the area with a few friends for a while to get a feel for the city. We ended up at a restaurant/bar called the Ice Wharf...we walked in and a guy sitting with some friends threw up everywhere...it kind of set the tone for the place. The Menu listed all the beef as 100% British Beef and our receipt listed the location as Londonderry. When we walked outside a fight was breaking out between two drunk idiots and later another fight started between two men yelling right-o at eachother. That night we went to a pub called Bound for Boston and caught a show for a while before walking through the dark streets of Derry to the hostel. We all agreed that it was a creepy place to walk through, but at least now it is safe to walk through ... at least for outsiders (as our guide put it). Yesterday was our last day in the North and we spent it going to the Giant't Causeway and the Carrick-a-rede rope bridge in Co. Antrim. It was really fun but I would of loved to spend more time in Derry seeing more the Protestant neighborhoods and talking to locals.
It was really weird to be in a different country using a different currency but still be in Ireland. It is sad that such a small country has to have two completely different systems but luckily things politically involving Britain are starting to improve. While we were in Derry powersharing started between Northern Ireland and England. Hopefully one day not too far away there will be a united Ireland and Britains control over the North will cease to exist. This is already starting in Scotland as well, last week the Scottish Nationalist Party won the election there and started a 5 year plan for independence! It is possible, and a lot of Irish are looking at Scotland to see if they are succesful.
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
Life in the Gleann
Hello to everyone out there! It has been a long time since I have had time to actually post anything, and the Internet is so slow here it always makes things interesting...although I think I have the fast computer so things are okay!
I am currently in a very small village called GleannColmCille which inhabits about 1,000 people (on a good day) and about 900 sheep (on a bad day). Alot of my time has been filled with classes, which only makes sense since I am getting credit for going to what I like to call Irish summer camp! It is really hard to go to class when you are surrounded by a very gorgeous beach, huge cliffs to go hike on, rolling green hills to go frolic in with the sheep, and lots of grass to run around in.
A usual daily schedule looks something like a morning language class for a bit over an hour, then an hour break, then an afternoon class for 3 hours, and an evening class for 2 hours. The classes range from studying Gaeltachts (areas designated as Irish speaking), Bodhran, tin whistle, weaving, hiking, Irish, Irish Mythology, poetry writing, donegal dancing and Sean nos singing.
After the evening class we usually head to the pubs or the beach for a bonfire. The pubs in Ireland are really interesting, it is where social life happens locally. The social commentary is really striking, for instance there is a male and female side to the main pub in town. Now imagine being a 20 year old girl going to the pub here for the first time to get a pint and talk and you walk in and sit on the "male" side. All the old guys sitting at the bar looked at us like we were crazy and occasionally try and herd us out of the area. It was a very intense time until the old men realized that we weren't going to move to the room without a warm fire...although sometimes we do but on our own will! It is interesting because you don't want to go into a new area and pretend it is like America where you can do "what you want" (although not fully) but at the same time you do not want to feel like you aren't worthy of being on a certain side of the pub. Although the pub situation is not as serious as it was before Ireland joined the EU it was still a shock to me because I have never REALLY felt unwelcome or discriminated against because of my sex, at least not this strongly.
This Friday the whole group is leaving the Gleann for five days to go to Galway and Derry and then returning for the rest of the time here. In Galway we will be going to see Yeats grave, a Sean nOs (old style) singing and dancing festival and to see the burren in Connemara then heading to Derry to see where the troubles occured and after an intense day of seeing the wall and murals of a still tense situation we will head to a rural part of the county and see the Giant's Causeway and the Carrick-a-rede bridge. I am really looking forward to Derry because the American media does not say much about the situation between the North and the Republic except for 'ceasefire'. From things I have heard from Irish people living here the IRA seems still alive as ever and I have heard tensions are still building in the North. The trip should be interesting as an upcoming election is in the works for the end of May as well!
I am currently in a very small village called GleannColmCille which inhabits about 1,000 people (on a good day) and about 900 sheep (on a bad day). Alot of my time has been filled with classes, which only makes sense since I am getting credit for going to what I like to call Irish summer camp! It is really hard to go to class when you are surrounded by a very gorgeous beach, huge cliffs to go hike on, rolling green hills to go frolic in with the sheep, and lots of grass to run around in.
A usual daily schedule looks something like a morning language class for a bit over an hour, then an hour break, then an afternoon class for 3 hours, and an evening class for 2 hours. The classes range from studying Gaeltachts (areas designated as Irish speaking), Bodhran, tin whistle, weaving, hiking, Irish, Irish Mythology, poetry writing, donegal dancing and Sean nos singing.
After the evening class we usually head to the pubs or the beach for a bonfire. The pubs in Ireland are really interesting, it is where social life happens locally. The social commentary is really striking, for instance there is a male and female side to the main pub in town. Now imagine being a 20 year old girl going to the pub here for the first time to get a pint and talk and you walk in and sit on the "male" side. All the old guys sitting at the bar looked at us like we were crazy and occasionally try and herd us out of the area. It was a very intense time until the old men realized that we weren't going to move to the room without a warm fire...although sometimes we do but on our own will! It is interesting because you don't want to go into a new area and pretend it is like America where you can do "what you want" (although not fully) but at the same time you do not want to feel like you aren't worthy of being on a certain side of the pub. Although the pub situation is not as serious as it was before Ireland joined the EU it was still a shock to me because I have never REALLY felt unwelcome or discriminated against because of my sex, at least not this strongly.
This Friday the whole group is leaving the Gleann for five days to go to Galway and Derry and then returning for the rest of the time here. In Galway we will be going to see Yeats grave, a Sean nOs (old style) singing and dancing festival and to see the burren in Connemara then heading to Derry to see where the troubles occured and after an intense day of seeing the wall and murals of a still tense situation we will head to a rural part of the county and see the Giant's Causeway and the Carrick-a-rede bridge. I am really looking forward to Derry because the American media does not say much about the situation between the North and the Republic except for 'ceasefire'. From things I have heard from Irish people living here the IRA seems still alive as ever and I have heard tensions are still building in the North. The trip should be interesting as an upcoming election is in the works for the end of May as well!
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